Rhetoric & Budget

     Rhetoric (Ethos, Pathos, & Logos) ●

     When we told our friends that we were going to Iceland, they all thought we were absolutely insane.  I mean, who in their right mind would want to go to a place that's literally called Iceland?   We definitely proved them wrong when they saw all the beautiful pictures of the waterfalls, lakes, and mountains.  You could hear their jaws drop when we Facetimed them from the Blue Lagoon.  They are't the only ones, though because today the Blue Lagoon is on the top ten places on the travel bucket lists of millennials.  Iceland is finally getting the recognition that it deserves for its glaciers, five star restaurants, art, music, and so much more.  Iceland is the third happiest nation according to a study conducted recently, and it's infectious just like laughter.  (Pathos)

     For those scared of travel because of the dangers associated with being in a new place, not knowing anybody, not knowing the emergency help numbers, and possibly not even knowing the language can be very daunting.  Rest assured though, Iceland is one of the safest countries there is, the annual murder rate is only five people per year.  In the US however over 73 people have died alone in mass shootings, and that was only within two months.  Not to mention gun violence which killed 10,955 and 5,709 killed by drunk driving.  (Logos) There has never been a threat or an occurrence of terrorism in Iceland, unlike the US which has been devastated multiple times by terrorist attacks.   Iceland is one of the safest places that you can go, even safer than your own home.
     And if you are afraid of having to learn some strange language, everyone in Iceland speaks English as well!   If you ever have a question or need help, you can always just ask.  While Icelanders can be a bit grumpy, their hospitality and helpfulness cannot be beaten.  Besides, who isn't grumpy from time to time?  I have met some of quite possibly the nicest people on earth during this trip, and I wish more than anything to be able to keep in touch.  

     Iceland is the place for someone with an adventurous spirit who wants to really grab life by the horns.  It's for the lovers of nature and the wild.  It's for adventurous foodies ready to try new and exciting courses.  It's for people who love greasy pub food and fine dining.  It's for those who like to meet new people and learn about new cultures.  Iceland is for people who like to dance all night and swim in beautiful hot springs.  Iceland is for you, me, and everyone.  Because of our two week long trip to Iceland, I'm not sure if any other place can measure up (Pathos). I would recommend a trip to Iceland for honey moons, birthday excursions, or just to spice up your life a little when the daily routine gets too much to bear.  

    We were so fortunate to get to stay in Iceland and we will never forget the amazing memories that we made there.  I think I can speak for all of us when we say that we would love to be able to go again some time, and for more people to take the leap and go to Iceland.  They definitely wouldn't regret it, they only thing they would regret would be not going. 

Budget Spreadsheet ●
Iceland Trip Budget

August 25th // Silfra Crack and Journey Home

Silfra Crack Scuba Diving // Sport ●

     It was our last day in Iceland and at the Black Pearl.  We couldn't help but feel sad when we packed our suitcases because although we knew that we needed to leave eventually, packing our bags made it final.  We all had to sit on Abby's suitcase because she bought over 20 puffin stuffed animals, which did lighten the mood a little.  We had to have breakfast on the go, some granola bars washed down with five hour energy.  
     45 minutes outside of Reykjavik is the Silfra Crack,  a deep underwater cave where people can dive.  It was formed when two tectonic plates separated and then subsequently were filled with melted glacier water.  The water is completely clear and drinkable.  In fact, most water in Iceland is potable.  The deepest point in the crack is 63 miles, but we weren't going to go that deep obviously because we aren't experienced divers.  Or divers at all really.  
     We got there and suited up.   They had special prescription goggles that we could use, which was nice because over half of us are hopelessly blind.  The water was freezing cold, but the wet suits shielded us from most of the temperature.  Not only was it beautiful down there, but we got to literally swim between tectonic plates, which was certainly a once in a life time experience.  We swam around for three hours and then had to go back to the hotel for the last time.  

Silfra Crack 

     We left the hotel at 1:45, with our bags ready and dressed for the airport, to go drop off the rental car.  After we gave the car back at 2:00 we called a cab to take us to the airport.  We got to the airport at 3:30 and got some muffins from Starbucks.  We waited around and looked at those horrible souvenirs at airport kiosks until it was time to go over to the terminal for to board our flight at 4:50 pm.  We got state side at 12:00 am, and although we would miss Iceland, it was good to be home.

     

August 24th // Returning to Rekjavik and Learning About Genetic Research

     Genetic Research // Technology ●
     The sun rose--more than it had been already, of course--over the cliff as the ocean beat the rocks below.  Little puffins squawked for their mothers, and they ended up waking us up like an alarm clock. We woke up at 6:30, which was brutal, and walked back to the car by 8:30.  We finished what was left of the snacks as we walked and then drove the last five hours.  We checked back into the Black Pearl Hotel around 1:30 and unloaded the car.   
      Taylor sprinted into the bathroom and showered as quickly as possible.  I don't know who was happier that she has showered, us or her after being cooped up in a car with her for the past day.  We were careful not to unpack too much because we were leaving tomorrow as we got ready to go meet Alda and Odda at the University of Iceland.  We left the hotel just before 1:45 and met them at 2:00.  First thing we did was really quickly get lunch at the cafeteria and catch up.  
     After that we went to the research labs.  Iceland is an extremely homogeneous population, meaning that there is very little genetic diversity.  Their low rate of immigration and gemological records that go back 1,000 years makes it a genealogical gold mine.  
     Nearly 1/3 of the country's population has donated or sold a sample of their genetics for research.  This has led to some backlash, however, because those who have not contributed feel like they are being blackmailed for their DNA by companies and those who have donated because research companies want to expand their databases to discover more about human genetics.  
    Through Icelandic genetics they have already found a gene that is linked to risk for Alzheimer's and a gene that can cancel out the effect of other genes.  
     The impact of these discoveries could lead to immeasurable advances in the medical field. Think of the significance of a gene that can cancel out another one, for example, and now that we can identify what genes cause Alzheimer's, in the future we could nearly eradicate the devastating degenerative disease that causes the brain to deteriorate in the elderly.  Those who have not donated sometimes get packages in the mail with fresh swabs and a notification that they will collect the samples in the near future.  Those tactics are very manipulative, and has recently made some people loose support for the industry.  
     It has also shown insight into evolution.  They were able to find our most recent common male ancestor, which they are calling the "father of humanity" by analyzing the DNA of over 2,600 Icelanders, and partial DNA of over 104,000 more.  He lived between 174,000 and 321,000 years ago, which contradicts the finding that the first humans lived 364,000 years ago.  Through this they can now work to find mutant genes which could give insight into what genes in the Icelandic population--which could then be used as a based for researching other populations--an immunity to disease.  So far 20 million variants have been found and even more genes have been linked to risks for even more diseases, like liver cancer and thyroid issues.  
     It's understandable that the researchers are so desperate for more samples of DNA, Iceland is like the holy grail of genetics.  They just might be the future for all of us.  
     We thanked Alda and Odda and had then went back to the Black Pearl for a good night's rest before tomorrow's busy day.   

One of the researchers in the lab 

August 23rd // Hofn, Mývatn Lake & Quick Trip to the WestFjords

Humarhöfnin Veitingahús// Indigenous Foods ●

Langoustine pizza

     We woke up at 7:30 am at the Glacier View Apartments, and left at 8:00 am.  We went to Hofn, a town about an hour and a half away.  Hofn is the second largest town in south east Iceland, and was the nearest place that we could get a hot breakfast, which after so much cold yesterday, we really needed.  
     Alissa got Beech smoked cod-liver, which came with a salad, pine nuts, and sun dried tomatoes.  It smelled surprisingly good for liver--not that I smell liver very often, don't be weird about it.  I got Klettur, a smoked dish of mutton--lamb--which interestingly enough came from Skaftafell National park, where they had grazed.  It had several a delicious side salad, which had basil oil, pomegranate, and blue cheese.  

Sandwich cake

     Taylor got something that I had no idea could even exist.  She got a sandwich cake.  Yes, a sandwich cake.  It is exactly like it sound.  It's all the ingredients in a sandwich in cake form; the bread replaces the sponge cake, cream cheese is used as frosting, and cucumber and parsley is used as decorations.  Strangely enough, it's actually a common Scandinavian food, and can be found in Norway as well.   It was garnished with turnips, cucumber, hard boiled eggs, and shrimp.  Abby was pretty disappointed because she became completely obsessed with the idea of a cake sandwich, but because of her shrimp allergy she couldn't try any.  She glared at Taylor as she ate and she vowed to cook her own sandwich cake when we got back to the US. 
     Abby and Kyndall all shared a Langoustine pizza.  Langoustine is a breed of slim, pink, lobster that originates in Norway, but also lives in Iceland because of their close proximity.  It was a bit of a strange breakfast to say the least, considering that it consisted of lamb and lobster, but it was a nice last breakfast during our road trip. 

Mývatn, Godafoss, & Látrabjarg // Nature ●
     After we finished breakfast we got on the road for five hours to Mývatn lake.  It's full of lava formations because of the nearby  Krafla volcano.  It's a eutrophic lake, meaning that it has a lot of algae and aquatic life because of abnormally high levels of nutrients.  There is a small lava island in the middle of the lake that was formed from a tectonic plate shift th]at resulted in lava being squeezed out.  It's surrounded by vibrant green algae and small fish. The lake was formed during the ice age.  Thirteen spices of ducks inhabit the lake.  
      Mývatn also describes not only the lake itself, but also the surrounding region, so we had a bit of trouble finding it.  Finding the lake wasn't the big issue, once we were there we had the most trouble finding a nice place to put down our picnic blanket.  It was absolutely beautiful there, so there was no way that we couldn't find a pretty spot, but it was a challenge finding a spot that wasn't slimy.  The algae, moss, and other strange green plants covered just about the entirety of the lake. 

 Mývatn

      Taylor really wanted to try and find a way to get to the lava island in the middle of the lake, given that it's only about one foot deep.  As we protested, she took off one of her boots, stripped off her sock, and stuck her foot in.  She immediately slipped on a huge glob of algae, and fell face first into the water.  With her hair hanging from her face like Spanish moss in wet muddy clumps, she looked up and screamed at the top of her lungs when a frog jumped at her face.  I don't think I've ever seen a person move quicker in my entire life.  She sprung up from the water onto the ground and shook like a dog.  
     Kyndall went into the car and grabbed a towel for Taylor.  As we set up for the picnic, all quietly mocking Taylor, Kyndall helped her figure out how to was off the mud--mainly so that we could keep our deposit on the rental car.  
     "Let's try that thing where you take a tarp, poke holes into it, and tie it to a tree.  We have the rope and the and a tarp, plus the extra gallons of water.  I think I saw it in an episode of Hannah Montana forever ago," Kyndall suggested.
     "I don't think that I want to put that much faith in an episode of Hannah Montana with my hair.  But--well--I guess it's better than smelling like fish all day," said Taylor. 
     Kyndall grabbed the supplies out of the car as Taylor fished through her bag for her shampoo and conditioner.  Kyndall and Taylor tried to find a tree, but seeing as Iceland is known as "the country without forests" it didn't work out.  
     Taylor remembered the beach umbrella that we brought for the beaches that we never used.  Kyndall tried to hand the bag up to one of the rods in the underside of the umbrella.  After a few tries it worked out and Taylor was able to wash her hair.  She changed into clean clothes in the car and joined us back at the picnic looking pretty defeated as she looked off into the lake eating her peanut butter and jelly sandwich.  
     "I miss my kitten," Taylor said, "She has cuddles and she only smells like fish, like, 30% of the time."
     Other than that, the picnic was pretty pleasant.  We got back on the road at 5:30 in the evening. 

     Half an hour away is the Godafoss, also known as "the waterfall of the gods".  It got the name because a prominent pagan figure, essentially with the equivalent amount of standing as the Catholic Pope, threw statures of the Norse gods into the waterfall according to legend in the year 1,000.  Though the statues have never been found, the story still symbolizes Iceland's official conversion to Christianity.  Icelandic paganism continued up until 1000 AD when Christianity became law, and their old gods--Thor, Odin, others--and goddesses--Frigg, Ēostre, others--had to be abandoned.  Norse is the old pagan religion and legends of the Scandinavian people, which originated from older Germanic Mythology.  It's actually quite interesting, not only because of the complexity of its legends, but how it also spread through only poetry.  The original way the religion was spread not through scripture or a prophet like most others, but by written poetry.  It's also astounding the impact that it still has now in Iceland.  They may have converted to Christianity over 1,000 years ago, Norse culture is still very much alive.  They still believe in trolls and the language is almost completely unchanged.  
     The Godafoss is about 100 feet wide and 40 feet tall, and is the rock formations around it make it one of the most impressive waterfalls in all of Iceland, despite its not even being on the top ten tallest.  Looking at it I can see why the pagan figure chose to throw them into this waterfall above all others, it makes for a very good dramatic gesture.  I was tempted to stand at the edge of the cliff and dramatically throw something off of it myself, but while it was an act of symbolic change back then, now its called littering.  

Godafoss

     We wanted to at least get a peak of the Westfjords before we left because what they showed us at culture night seemed really cool.  The drive was a grueling seven hours, but by taking an hour and a half long shifts made it bearable.  
     When we finally got to Látrabjarg in the Westfjords around 12:30 at night.  Látrabjarg is the westernmost point in Iceland has a giant cliff that stretches out over the Atlantic ocean out 8.7 miles long and over 1,443 feet up.  On the rocks, puffins nest in the summer.  It was so cool walking all the way to the tip, which took forever, but was totally worth it for the view.     There were little puffin chicks on the rocks that you could see if you crouched down at the tip and bent your head over the edge.  Taylor and I didn't have the stomach for it because of our crippling fear of heights.  Kyndall of course, just sat at the edge of the cliff and leaned farther and father over it until we were all yelling at her for it.  Alissa had thought to bring a loaf of bread with her in a little Nike bag to feed the puffins.  It probably wasn't ethical to feed wild birds white bread, but it sure was fun.  They would toddle right up to your hands, snatch an entire piece, and then hop off. 

     

Látrabjarg

     We had all taken turns carrying the tent up the cliff, and set up camp around 2 am.  We ate the remaining pop-tarts and snacks that we had packed for the road trip.  We were super tired so we unrolled our sleeping bags and went to bed.  

August 22nd // Ice Caves and Beautiful Lakes

      Ice Caves & Jökulsárlón // Nature ●

Kverkfjöll ice cave

     The tour started at 11:00 in the morning, so we were able to sleep in until 10:00 which was nice.  We met the rest of the party, a team of about ten photographers, ten minutes away.  The tour guide told us the biggest rule: leave only footprints, take only pictures.  Everybody got into one of the three big Range Rovers to ride to the ice caves.  
     We were going to Kverkfjöll ice cave, one of the largest ice caves on earth.  They expand 1,764 miles and 1722 feet tall, and are located under Vatnajökull, the largest ice cap in Iceland, and the Dyngjufjöll, a volcanic mountain range.  Ice caves are frequently formed from when a glacier melts a little, and the water eats away at the ice until there is an air pocket that eventually expands.  Others, in the case of Kverkfjöll, are formed by hot springs and geothermal vents under the ice.  
     A small stream runs through most of the cave, and the blue ice looks like glass.  The cave is fairly unstable because the glacial movements and the unstable magma chambers under the caves makes them susceptible to collapse.  There's even a warning sign in the parking lot to warn inexperienced tourists not to try exploring the caves without a professional tour guide.  The safety wavers we had to sign were extensive, but we trusted our tour guides and couldn't resist the ice caves.  "If we're going to our deaths, we might as well die in style," I said to Abby who got a little nervous when she saw how big the waver packets were. 
     "They're just about as big as the ones for bounce houses, and no one's ever died in a bounce house--actually I take that back one time one deflated on me and i almost got smothered.  Still scarred for life by that.  It was like being sat on by a rainbow elephant," Kyndall shivered.  
     "You're not helping, Kyndall," Taylor said, rolling her eyes.  
     We still ended up still doing it because majority rules.  Abby grumbled all the way there, promising to haunt us if we die.  Arguing that if we all died, then how would she haunt a ghost, didn't help at all.  

Alissa, Taylor, Abby, and me freezing while Kyndall brags

     We got to the caves at 11:00 as planned, and explored the caves for the next four hours.  The light trailed through openings in the cave as the mist danced over the light beams.  
     Abby lost her shoe... somewhere. We're not really sure how, or why it was only shoe, but Abby had to struggle-hop everywhere with a wet sock. We're still not sure if the tour guide noticed, or if it's still there.
     There was frozen over snow that capped the ice under the openings.  The wasn't clear like it is back home when puddles freeze over, it was a rich blue.  We hadn't thought it would be that cold, so we didn't wear snow pants, but Kyndall in her stupid coat was nice and toasty because it went all the way to her knees. 

Jökulsárlón

           Walking inside the caves was pretty slippery, so we had to be careful when we walked back to the Range Rovers.  
     Once we got back to the hotel we packed up and drove to Jökulsárlón, which literally translates to "glacier river lagoon."  It was only a hour long drive to Jökulsárlón from Skaftafell hotel. 
     Jökulsárlón developed into a lake when the glacier started receding from the Atlantic ocean, which made a beach and lake full of bright blue glacier chunks.  Every year it gets a bit bigger because the glaciers are melting, and is currently at about 7 square miles, four times what it was in 1970.  Jökulsárlón is the deepest lake in Iceland at 814 feet.  
     The tour started at 4:30 and lasted for an hour.  The water was so clear that you could see the bottom of the icebergs all the way to their bottom.  Seals lounged on the ice burgs in between dives into the water to catch fish.  Large seabirds like Arctic Terns catch herring, trout, salmon, and other fish.  Puffins also live at Jökulsárlón. 

Jökulsárlón

     We booked a night at the Glacier View Apartments in Hnof, only two hours away from 
Jökulsárlón.